The Samsung washing machine SE error code is your device’s way of signaling that it’s facing difficulties with the drainage process. In some instances, this issue might be displayed as a 5E or nd error code. However, ensure you do not confuse it with the E5 error code, which signifies a heating element malfunction.
Should you encounter the SE error code, resist the impulse to open the washer’s front door immediately, especially if you’re using a front-loading washer. Opening the door might lead to an undesirable splash of unemptied water. While you can potentially bypass the error by unplishing the washer for a couple of minutes, this only provides a temporary fix. The SE error usually signifies an underlying problem that will require a more long-term solution. Prolonged ignorance of this issue might escalate it into a more serious problem down the line.
Important note: When disconnecting hoses, ensure the tub isn’t overly filled with water as it might rush out, causing a mess. If the tub is full, it’s advisable to manually empty the washer before detaching any hoses. Also, keep a large container ready to collect water when addressing the SC error code.
This troubleshooting guide is suitable for several Samsung models, including but not limited to:
Why Does the SE Error Code Appear?
The SE error code emerges when the washer is unable to drain as swiftly as it should. This duration is calculated based on the load size and the selected washing cycle. The most frequent culprits behind the SE error code include a defective drain pump, a blockage in the drainage system, or a dirty filter.
How Can You Address the SE Error Code?
1. Purify the Pump Filter (For Front-Loader Washers) Most Samsung front-loading washers come equipped with a pump or debris filter accessible from the front. It’s advisable to cleanse this filter at least once every month or after every 40 laundry loads. Maintaining the filter’s cleanliness can help prevent mold, mildew, and unpleasant odors while ensuring proper drainage.
Here are the steps to clean your pump filter:
- Unlatch the pump filter access panel by pushing on the cover.
- Identify the black rubber drain hose.
- Extract the white drain plug from the hose and discharge the water into a large container. Prepare for potential water spills. To remove the plug, which creates an airtight seal, you might need to twist it while holding the hose.
- Depending on the model, either twist the pump filter counterclockwise and pull it out or push it in and rotate it like a medicine bottle.
- Cleanse the filter using soap and water. Employ a small toothbrush or soft-bristle brush to scrub off any lingering dirt or debris.
- Reinsert the filter into the washer.
- Replace the hose plug and reposition the hose in its mounting clip.
- Close the access panel.
2. Inspect the Drain Hose If your washer isn’t draining, the drain hose might be twisted, squashed, or blocked by a small object. Alternatively, the drain hose outlet might be underwater, limiting the washer’s ability to drain. Should the drain hose be irreparable or improperly installed, it will necessitate replacement.
The drain hose installation should be correct for the water to drain appropriately. The drain hose might be connected to a waste pipe spigot, a waste trap, or a standpipe. If it’s connected to a standpipe, ensure the drain hose hooks over an open standpipe attached to the waste pipe.
If it’s linked to a spigot, follow these steps:
- If the washer has recently been installed, check that the blanking cap has been removed from the hose-spigot junction.
- Confirm the hose connection is secure.
- Ensure there are no twists or bends in the hose.
If the drain hose is connected to a standpipe, follow these instructions:
- Ensure the hose is correctly positioned and secured.
- Confirm that the drain hose is no less than 23 inches above the floor level.
- Check that the standpipe entirely envelops the drain hose.
- Ensure that no more than 6 inches of drain hose is inside the standpipe.
- Confirm there are no kinks or bends in the drain hose.
In case of a blocked drain hose:
- Disconnect the power supply to the washer and turn off the water supply.
- Detach the drain hose from the washer.
- Unblock the drain hose using a drain snake tool or cleanse it with a mixture of hot water, white vinegar, and baking soda. You can inspect the washer’s internal drain hose by following the drain pump cleaning instructions mentioned earlier.
3. Malfunctioning Drain Pump If your drain hose is clear, the issue might lie with the drain pump. A small item, clothing article, or damaged impeller might be interfering with the pump’s operation. If the impeller is intact and the pump is unobstructed, it might have an electrical failure.
To inspect the drain pump:
- Disconnect the washer from the power source and the water supply.
- For front-load washers, detach the rear access panel. For top-load washers, first secure the lid with tape to prevent it from opening. Then, lay the washer on its front to access the drain pump situated underneath.
- Detach the drain pump wire connector.
- Inspect the wiring harness on the drain pump. Ensure it’s secured and undamaged.
- Utilize pliers to release the clamps securing the drain hose to the pump. Remove the drain hose.
- Use a 5/16 inch socket to extract the drain pump mounting screws.
- Remove the pump from the washer.
- Inspect the pump for any damage or obstructions.
If the pump appears undamaged and obstruction-free, it might have an electrical failure. Use a multimeter to check if the drain pump motor has continuity, signifying an uninterrupted electrical path. If the motor tests negative for continuity, the pump will need replacement.
Other Possible Causes If your attempts at fixing the filter, drain hose, and drain pump are unsuccessful, the issue might lie with the pressure switch or the control panel. The pressure switch sends signals to the control board, instructing it when to add or drain water. Incorrect signals might lead to improper draining. You can employ a multimeter to test the pressure switch, or simply replace it as it’s a relatively cheap part.
If the error code persists, it could indicate that the control panel or timer is defective. Testing these parts with a multimeter can be complex and may necessitate professional assistance or part replacement.